Forty-five hours on a train, and I'm in Lhasa. There's no question that this is a city under military occupation. Chinese soldiers guard most intersections, perch on rooftops (including that of the city's mosque), and parade around the plazas in front of the Potala Palace and Jokhang Temple. Photographing them is strictly forbidden, and since they're hiding all over the place, taking snapshots can be a little stressful. This morning I saw a Chinese tourist being escorted away under vocal protest after catching some soldiers in her frame. Presumably they'll just confiscate her camera's memory card, but she may be in for some serious questioning. And the occupation goes beyond the military, into the religious. Photos of the Dalai Lama that used to lay cradled in the arms of the Buddhas in the Jokhang have been replaced by images of the Panchen Lama, hand picked by the Chinese government.


Putting politics aside, Lhasa charmed my heart from the start. Sharp mountain peaks tinged green with vegetation ring the town, and in the meandering streets of the old quarter around the Jokhang, Tibetan pilgrims outnumber foreign tourists many times over. Stooped old women do the Kora around the Temple spinning prayer wheels. Others exercise their devotion by chanting and prostrating themselves every two steps all the way around. Inside the Temple, grease from the ghee lamps slicks the floors and makes the wall sticky. The air is close, the passageways crowded. I spotted fewer than twenty monks inside, some praying, some eating lunch, and some chanting and beating a giant drum hanging from the ceiling (one while sorting the money left by pilgrims). Worshippers stuff small bills through the glass cases in front of sacred images of Buddhas and historical leaders. They touch their foreheads to the cases, and many carry thermoses of molten ghee to add to the amber pools fueling the devotional flames. At the heart of the temple lies a seventh century Buddha brought by the Chinese wife of Tibet's first king (he also had a Nepalese and a Tibetan wife). Dressed in robes and crowned with jewels, this image is the only one still to be illuminated by authentic yak butter. A monk was giving him a touch-up paint job as we walked by. The Jokhang feels deeply rooted in the past, the physical site of so many generations of worship, and at the same time, it's unmistakably alive, vibrant with current prayers, ringing with the sound of two dozen workers singing and pounding on the roof as they repair it.


The train ride here was spectacular. On day one, we went through hundreds of miles of "small" cities, each with multiple clusters of thirty story condo towers sprouting from the fields and low buildings below. I realized that what had struck me as big on the outskirts of Beijing the day before was actually a sleepy neighborhood, for in these outlying areas, whole cities are being grown from scratch. On day two, the natural beauty kicked in. Sharp snowcapped peaks, vast expanses of scrubby plains, full of tiny antelope, sheep, yak, and the occasional tent city or tiny village. The muddy rivers flowing by dozens of quarries that we'd seen on day one were now icy gray glacial runoff, bounding quickly over rocks between heathery green banks. We hit altitudes of nearly 17,000 feet.

Inside the train, the passengers were uniformly friendly and quite boisterous -- almost everyone headed to Tibet on holiday, most with digital cameras much fancier than mine. An 18 year old student about to embark on his freshman year in a dance program at university talked to us about love, life, dreams. He'd just seen a play in Beijing that made him cry till he had no more tears. He was headed to Tibet out of respect for life's journey and in the hope of advancing along it. 18 year olds are 18 everywhere.
Tomorrow we visit Potala Palace, the only building Frank Lloyd Wright had on his wall that he did not design, and hit some more monasteries. In a week or so, Everest Base Camp. I'm savoring the present, and eagerly anticipating what's to come.